December 2016
There were days I felt completely unworthy because the scenery was overwhelmingly spectacular. I’m still feeling its soothing quality four months after moving back to Ireland. Don’t pity me, though. The scenery around here holds its own!
We lived in Biandronno, a town with one arm hugging the lake and the other stretching into woodlands and rolling farmland.
Gavirate was our shopping town and the crossroad to Besozzo, Brebbia and Varese. Ternate on Lago Comabbia was another stomping ground with spacious parks and lakeside paths. The cycle and foot path around Varese lake offered hours of good rides, power walks and lazy Sunday strolls with friends. There were hundreds of trails in Camp di Fiori with picnic grounds under cool trees offering shade and refuge from the summer heat. Sacro Monte glimmered from above as if it was winking at all beneath it in some enchanting code of invitation.
The city itself is a blend of new world high street chain shops and old architecture. I found the traffic intimidating but people on foot were always friendly.
Our initial relocation wasn’t all roses or rather it wasn’t all smooth tasty Prosecco. We seized an opportunity that came up quickly and had very little lead time to prepare. I had some French but had never studied Italian and it was difficult to learn. I have immense respect for folks who are bi-lingual and even more respect for people who can hold three or four languages in their heads. I met quite a few of these remarkable peeps.
Outside of the actual city of Varese it was hard to find English speakers. Keeping in mind that immersion is the best way to learn, I set about mastering survival Italian. I must say, folks were patient with me and great teachers as they always took the time to correct me.
Humorously, the more confident I got with my Italian, the more English-speakers I encountered. Where they were in the early days when I was desperate for directions or information is a question for Mr. Murphy and his curious Law.
Driving was easy. It was a combination of driving in the U.S. with its left-hand drive and orderly road signs and the insanely narrow, twisty roads of Ireland. The type that make you squeeze your shoulders together and pray when passing another car. I’d had a decade of experience in both systems so I was okay on the roads. I couldn’t have done it without my Sat Nav, though I’d be lying if I didn’t admit we had a tempestuous relationship. It routinely cut out as the mountains get in the way of the reception. Typically, it would happen at crucial times when I needed to be somewhere and I didn’t have a clue where I was. It also tried directed me the wrong way down one-way streets. A bit harrowing for sure. Updating the maps, as recommended, is a good idea!
Beautiful Biandronno
We made our home in an independent villa with spacious rooms, large windows, and horrible tile. The garden was the attraction. Boasting Banana trees, Magnolia, pine, Palm, Walnut, Hazelnut, Acacia, Elder and Kiwi too, it changed spectacular with the seasons.
We were surrounded by hay fields, a few small farms, and gorgeous woods where cows wearing bells grazed.
There was an ongoing chorus of crickets and frogs and birds. The Coo Coo bird was a constant in the spring and the Nightingale provided a gracious lullaby.
In the spring, the Acacia blossoms were intoxicating in smell and sight when they’d drift through the breeze making it, at first glance, seem as it was snowing against a vibrant blue sky.
Below: the garden and the neighbourhood.
Isola Virginia
A tiny island a few meters away from the banks in Biandronno. The ferry service out there was closed for the majority of time we lived in the area. It opened a few months before we left so we were able to go out and visit. It is the site of a neolithic settlement filled with artefacts and the island is known for its long stemmed water lilies. There’s a restaurant and picnic grounds so it’s a popular weekend haunt for locals.
Sacro Monte di Varese
One of the most popular and enchanting places to visit in the Varese area is the stunning Sacro Monte. Beloved by both locals and visitors alike, its enticing cluster of rooftops can be seen glimmering in the sun from many places throughout the city.
And from its heavenly perch, 830 meters high on the Sacred Mountain, it offers a spectacular panorama view of the Alps, plains of Lombardy, rolling farmland and of course the glistening lakes. You can even see the city skyline of Milano.
Fourteen Chapels line a winding 2.5 kilometer path,that ascends 750 meters to the impressive rococo church in Santa Maria del Monte (or as its better known Sacro Monte). Dating back to the 16th and 17th century, the chapels are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Another draw to the top of Sacro Monte is its three exclusive restaurants, all popular with locals who enjoy the romantic vistas, delectable cuisine, legendary specialties, and fabulous hospitality.
Pictures from walks in Camp dei Fiori
Whimspherical 